To draught-proof windows that open, use draught-proofing strips to seal the gap between the window and the frame. There are two main types:

• Self-adhesive foam strips – Affordable and easy to apply, but they may not be very durable.
• Metal or plastic strips with attached brushes or wipers – These last longer but are slightly more expensive.

Ensure the strip is the right size for the gap. If it’s too large, it may get crushed, making it hard to close the window. If too small, the gap will remain.

For sliding sash windows, foam strips are not effective. Instead, fit brush strips or consult a professional. For windows that don’t open, use silicone sealant. If you’re considering replacing your windows, opt for energy-efficient models.

Draught-proofing external doors can prevent significant heat loss without costing much. Focus on these four key areas:

• Keyhole – Install a cover that drops a metal disc over the keyhole to block draughts.
• Letterbox – Use a letterbox flap or brush to stop draughts; be sure to measure your letterbox before purchasing.
• Gap at the bottom – Fit a brush or hinged flap draught excluder.
• Gaps around the edges – Use foam, brush, or wiper strips similar to those used for windows.

Internal doors should be draught-proofed if they lead to unheated spaces, like spare rooms or kitchens. Keep these doors closed to prevent cold air from spreading into heated areas. If there’s a gap at the bottom, block it with a draught excluder—this could be homemade using old plastic bags or spare fabric.

Doors between two heated rooms don’t need draught-proofing, as allowing warm air to circulate between them doesn’t waste energy.

If you no longer use your fireplace, your chimney could be a major source of unwanted draughts. There are two primary ways to draught-proof a chimney:

• Install a cap over the chimney pot – This is often best done by a professional.
• Use a chimney draught excluder – These devices help prevent draughts and heat loss by fitting inside the chimney or around the fireplace.

Be sure to remove any draught-proofing if you plan to use the fireplace again.

To seal gaps in your floor, use a silicone-based filler that can handle the natural movement of floorboards and skirting boards, which often expand, contract, or shift slightly with daily use. Consider using:

• Flexible fillers
• Decorator’s caulk
• Mastic-type products

These fillers come in different colours and are available for both indoor and outdoor use. Since they create a permanent seal, apply them carefully and wipe away any excess with a damp cloth before it dries. While fillers may break down over time, they can be easily reapplied.

Additionally, check if there’s a need to insulate between the skirting board and the floor for better draught-proofing.

Since hot air rises, it often escapes into the colder space of your loft or attic. To prevent this, it’s a good idea to block any drafts around the loft hatch. You can use strip insulation, similar to what is used on doors.

Small gaps around pipes can be sealed using silicone fillers, the same type used for skirting boards and floorboards. For larger gaps, expanding polyurethane foam is ideal. This foam is sprayed into the gap, where it expands as it dries and hardens.

For old fan outlets, it can be appropriate to fill them with bricks or concrete blocks, ensuring they are sealed both from the inside and outside. It is important to consider the buildings ventilation when doing so.

Cracks in walls can be repaired using cement or hard-setting fillers, which work well around electrical fittings and at the joints between ceilings and walls. If you have a large crack, it’s important to investigate the cause. You might need to consult a surveyor or builder to identify any underlying structural issues.